12 Roof Repair Tips: Find and Fix a Leaking Roof

12 Roof Repair Tips: Find and Fix a Leaking Roof

You can stop leaks yourself-no experience necessary. We show you how to track down and fix the most common types of roof leaks. Most leaks take only minutes to repair.

Roof Leak Overview  12 Roof Repair Tips: Find and Fix a Leaking Roof FH09JAU FIXROO 02

Roof Leak Overview

If you have water stains that extend across ceilings or run down walls, the cause is probably a roof leak. Tracking down the leak is the hard part; the fixes are usually pretty easy. We'll show you some simple tricks for finding and repairing most of the common types of roof leaks. But if you live in the Snow Belt and in the winter you have leaks only on warm or sunny days, you probably have ice dams. We won't go into those fixes in this story. Check out this article for more on preventing ice dams.

If you have a roof leak, you'd better fix it immediately, even if it doesn't bother you much or you're getting a new roof next year. Even over a short time, small leaks can lead to big problems, such as mold, rotted framing and sheathing, destroyed insulation and damaged ceilings. The flashing leak that caused an expensive repair bill was obvious from the ceiling stains for over two years. If the homeowner had dealt with it right away, the damage and subsequent repairs would have been minimal.

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How to Find Roof Leaks

When you're trying to track down a leak, start by looking at the roof uphill from the stains. (Plus: here's how to clean roof stains.) The first thing to look for is any roof penetrations. Items that penetrate the roof are by far the most common source of leaks. In fact, it's rare for leaks to develop in open areas of uninterrupted shingles, even on older roofs. Penetrations can include plumbing and roof vents, chimneys, dormers or anything else that projects through the roof. They can be several feet above the leak or to the right or left of it.

If you have attic access, the easiest way to track down a leak is to go up there with a flashlight and look for the evidence. There will be water stains, black marks or mold. But if access is a problem or you have a vaulted ceiling, you'll have to go up onto the roof and examine the suspect(s).

A Trick for Finding Difficult Leaks  12 Roof Repair Tips: Find and Fix a Leaking Roof FH09JAU FIXROO 01

A Trick for Finding Difficult Leaks

If a leak is difficult to find, enlist a helper and go up on the roof with a garden hose. Start low, soaking the area just above where the leak appears in the house. Isolate areas when you run the hose. For example, soak the downhill side of a chimney first, then each side, then the top on both sides. Have your helper stay inside the house waiting for the drip to appear. Let the hose run for several minutes in one area before moving it up the roof a little farther. Tell your helper to yell when a drip becomes visible. You'll be in the neighborhood of the leak. This process can take well over an hour, so be patient and don't move the hose too soon. Buy your helper dinner. If running water doesn't reveal the exact location of the leak, don't be timid. Start removing shingles in the suspect area. With them removed, there'll be evidence of the leak and you'll be able to track it down right to the source. You'll see discolored felt paper or water-stained or even rotted wood directly below and around it.

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Solution for a Small Leak

Some roof leaks are tough to locate. Sometimes the water shows up at a ceiling spot distant from the leak. If your ceiling has a plastic vapor barrier between the drywall and the attic insulation, push the insulation aside and look for flow stains on the plastic. Often water runs to openings in the vapor barrier, such as at ceiling light fixtures.

If you can't see any telltale flow marks, and since the stain is fairly small, look at the underside of the roof for 'shiners.' A shiner is a nail that missed the framing member, in this case when the carpenter nailed the roof sheathing to the rafters. Moisture that escapes into the cold attic from the rooms below often condenses on cold nails. Sometimes you can spot this if you climb up into your attic on a cold night. The nails will look white because they're frosted. When the attic heats up a bit during the day, the frost melts and drips, then the nails frost up at night again and so on. The solution is to simply clip the nail with a side-cutting pliers.

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Fix Plumbing Vent Boots

Plumbing vent boots can be all plastic, plastic and metal, or even two-piece metal units. Check plastic bases for cracks and metal bases for broken seams. Then examine the rubber boot surrounding the pipe. That can be rotted away or torn, allowing water to work its way into the house along the pipe. With any of these problems, you should buy a new vent boot to replace the old one. But if the nails at the base are missing or pulled free and the boot is in good shape, replace them with the rubber-washered screws used for metal roofing systems. You'll find them at any home center with the rest of the screws. You'll have to work neighboring shingles free on both sides. If you don't have extra shingles, be careful when you remove shingles so they can be reused. Use a flat bar to separate the sealant between the layers. Then you'll be able to drive the flat bar under the nail heads to pop out the nails.

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Fix Roof Vents

Check for cracked housings on plastic roof vents and broken seams on metal ones. You might be tempted to throw caulk at the problem, but that solution won't last long. There's really no fix other than replacing the damaged vents. Also look for pulled or missing nails at the base's bottom edge. Replace them with rubber-washered screws. In most cases, you can remove nails under the shingles on both sides of the vent to pull it free. There will be nails across the top of the vent too. Usually you can also work those loose without removing shingles. Screw the bottom in place with rubber-washered screws. Squeeze out a bead of caulk beneath the shingles on both sides of the vent to hold the shingles down and to add a water barrier. That's much easier than renailing the shingles.

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Fix Walls and Dormers

Water doesn't always come in at the shingled surface. Often, wind-driven rain comes in from above the roof, especially around windows, between corner boards and siding, and through cracks and knotholes in siding. Dormer walls provide lots of spots where water can dribble down and enter the roof. Caulk can be old, cracked or even missing between the corner boards and between window edges and siding. Water penetrates these cracks and works its way behind the flashing and into the house. Even caulk that looks intact may not be sealing against the adjoining surfaces. Dig around with a putty knife to see if the area is sealed. Dig out any suspect caulk and replace it with a siliconized latex caulk. Also check the siding above the step flashing. Replace any cracked, rotted or missing siding, making sure the new piece overlaps the step flashing by at least 2 in. If you still have a leak, pull the corner boards free and check the overlapping flashing at the corner. Often, there's old, hardened caulk where the two pieces overlap at the inside corner.

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Complex Roof Problem

This roof leaks during the snowy part of winter and during storms in the summer, certainly due to poor flashing. The soffit that meets the roof is one of the toughest areas to waterproof. In the photo, you can still see signs of an ice dam. An ice dam occurs when snow melts and the water freezes when it hits the colder edges of your roof. Eventually, water pools behind the dam and works its way back up under the shingles and under the soffit until it finds an opening through the roof.

The solution begins with good flashing, since this should stop leaks from rainfall and might stop the leaks from ice dams as well. Begin by removing the shingles down to the wood sheathing and slip a strip of adhesive ice-and-water barrier (available where roofing products are sold) under the soffit/main roof joint. Depending on how the roofs join, you may have to cut a slot to work it in far enough. It should overlap another piece of ice-and-water barrier laid below, all the way down to the roof edge. This should cover the most leak-prone areas. Then reshingle, sliding metal step flashing behind the fascia board (the trim behind the gutter). The valley flashing, laid over the joint where the two roofs meet, should overlap the step flashing at least 2 in.

If leaks continue to occur from ice dams, consider installing roof edge heating cables. (Find them locally at hardware stores or home centers.) Improved attic insulation and ventilation are usually the best ways to prevent ice dams, but they might not be effective in this complicated roof situation.

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Fix Step Flashing

Step flashing is used along walls that intersect the roof. Each short section of flashing channels water over the shingle downhill from it. But if the flashing rusts through, or a piece comes loose, water will run right behind it, and into the house it goes. Rusted flashing needs to be replaced. That means removing shingles, prying siding loose, and then removing and replacing the step flashing. It's that simple. But occasionally a roofer forgets to nail one in place and it eventually slips down to expose the wall. Check out this article for more on installing your own step flashing.

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Don't Count on Caulk!

Rarely will caulk or roof cement cure a roof leak?at least for very long. You should always attempt a 'mechanical' fix whenever possible. That means replacing or repairing existing flashing instead of using any type of sealant. Only use caulk for very small holes and when flashing isn't an option.

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Fix Small Holes

Tiny holes in shingles are sneaky because they can cause rot and other damage for years before you notice the obvious signs of a leak. You might find holes left over from satellite dish or antenna mounting brackets or just about anything. And exposed, misplaced roofing nails should be pulled and the holes patched. Small holes are simple to fix, but the fix isn't to inject caulk in the hole. You'll fix this one with flashing.

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Leaks Around Brick Chimneys

All kinds of bad things can happen around brick chimneys. In fact, there are far too many to cover in this story. Flashing around chimneys can rust through if it's galvanized steel, especially at the 90-degree bend at the bottom. A quick but fairly long-term fix is to simply slip new flashing under the old rusted stuff. That way any water that seeps through will be diverted. The best fix, though, is to cut a saw kerf into the mortar and install new flashing. Get complete instructions on how to install chimney flashing.

Roofing Renovation: 6 Do’s And Don’ts For Success

Roofing Renovation: 6 Do’s And Don’ts For Success

By Tom Hanzely and Robert Anderson

The lifespan of commercial roofing systems varies depending on geography, climate, roof type, and other factors, but at some point, every roofing system needs to be reevaluated. Renovations not only ensure safety for building occupants, but also verify the system will keep energy costs to a minimum and prevent problems from occurring later on. Facility managers can work with their roofing contractors to determine the best course of action for a roofing system, but it’s important the facility professional be as informed as possible when making decisions about his or her building.

Here are some do’s and don’ts to keep in mind before undergoing your next roofing renovation:

DO determine the current state of your roof. It’s important to figure out whether your roof needs an overlay or a complete tear-off and roof replacement. During a roof recover, a new membrane or roofing system is installed over the current roof, while a tear-off completely removes the roof down to an exposed deck. Part of making this decision means inspecting the roof for damage. What you’re looking for will depend on the type of roof. For instance, sloped roofs should be examined for any warping or bending, as this is a sign the roof may be nearing the end of its lifecycle.roof replacement Roofing Renovation: 6 Do’s And Don’ts For Success Roofing Renovation: 6 Do’s And Don’ts For Success insulation install firestone

If conducting a roof recover, the existing roof needs to be able to support the weight of the new roof being placed over top of it. With minimal damage from elements like moisture, placing an overlayment on top of the old roof can help keep costs down and is a quick, effective way to re-roof.

DON’T forget to inspect materials. What type of existing surfaces are on the roof? Are they in good condition? Conduct a visual inspection of the roof to determine the state of materials. For example, is the roof coating cracked? Is the rubber membrane torn? Are there visible leaks? Drainage systems should also be inspected in order to prevent any future water damage from occurring. If the current roof is equipped with polyiso insulation, it may be able to be reused and recycled. However, this will depend on whether you’re doing a complete roof replacement or simply re-covering. A tear-off will typically require more inches of insulation than a roof overlay.

roof replacement Roofing Renovation: 6 Do’s And Don’ts For Success Roofing Renovation: 6 Do’s And Don’ts For Success vegetated roof firestoneDO think long term. What is this roof being used for over the next 10 to 20 years? Will it endure heavy foot traffic? Will it face strong UV rays and high temperatures? Determining how the roof will be used will help you figure out what materials to use during the renovation to ensure an extended roof life. For instance, in some climate zones, white, reflective membranes can help ward off UV rays and keep the roof cool, helping to reduce cooling costs over time, while a vegetated roof can provide ample green space for building occupants. Vegetated roofs also offer benefits spanning from stormwater management to energy savings. However, you want the underlying roof system to be repaired, if needed, before a vegetated roof is installed over top.

DON’T overlook alternative materials. While a roof recover can be a good substitute to a replacement, there are other options to consider as well. For instance, talk with your roofing contractor about liquid-applied roof coatings to see if that may be a viable choice for your commercial building. Liquid-applied coatings are installed over your commercial roof, and in some cases, can extend an existing roof’s service life, provide energy savings, and even deliver cost savings over the long term. Keep in mind, however, the existing roof has to be in somewhat good condition before a coating is applied. Roof coatings should be used as a preventive measure to protect the roof rather than repair damage that has already been done.

DO stay up to date on building codes and standards. As a facility manager, you’re well aware of the importance of adhering to building codes and standards. Roofing codes and standards are always evolving, which means it’s critical to be in the know about when things change, and how those adjustments will impact your roofing system. Familiarize yourself with the building codes in your area, and make an effort to stay in touch with trade associations so you’re aware of any changes that will impact your building. It’s also a good idea to study basic code requirements that may apply to any commercial building.

DON’T wait for a problem to occur before renovating. Rather than waiting for a problem to arise, schedule regular roof inspections at least twice a year. This way, you’ll be able to start renovations on the roof before major problems, like roof leaks, start to occur. Even if there aren’t any visible problems with your commercial roof, it doesn’t mean a renovation or complete replacement should be put off.

While roofing renovations will vary greatly depending on the type of roofing system in place and other external factors like climate and geography, renovations are crucial for maintaining roof life, ensuring high performance and promoting a safe environment for building occupants. Establish a good working relationship with your roofing contractor to determine which approach is the best option for your building.

THis post was taken from : https://facilityexecutive.com/2017/07/roofing-renovation-6-dos-donts-success/

Top 10 Roofing Tips

Top 10 Roofing Tips

Think Safety First

Fussing to try and find a leak as soon as it happens is something that could put you in the hospital. Meddling on a roof while it's raining or covered with ice and snow isn't the ideal way to find a leak. Trying to temporarily fix a leak could be highly dangerous. If you want to do it right, there is no quick-fix. Just take your time, and be very patient and careful to wait for Mother Nature to give you the green light.

Take Precautions

Being on a roof will put the body in positions that are not comfortable or safe. Make sure to wear rubber sole shoes to prevent slipping. Also use a harness and always work with a buddy.

Spray the Roof

Take a garden hose and go up to the roof and start spraying in different locations to find the leak. Wait if it's wintertime because it's not safe to run water on the roof when it's freezing out.

Keep Gutters Clean

One of the most common areas and causes for roof leaks are clogged gutters. Gutters that have not been cleaned can cause the water to build up during rain.

Avoid Dry Rot

Dry rot isn't related to any type of water damage, but lack of ventilation. If a roof repair is right in the middle of the roof, there is a chance that the plywood might be deteriorating. The roof will actually sag in and cause the roof shingles to get brittle, crack and then leak. Preventing dry rot consists of installing a ridge vent, which will only work if there is a soffit vent. Holes have to be drilled through the soffit vents so cool air comes in through the bottom and pushes the hot air out through the top.

Prevent Ice Buildup

In the wintertime, ice has no problem building up under the roof membrane, shingles and gutters. The ice builds back up when it reaches the wall line where the house is heated and it creates an interior drip. Proper ventilation, rain and ice shields along with installing a drip edge will help prevent this problem.

Fix Roof Boots

Flashing, roofing, ice damping and skylights are all obvious places for potential leaks. One thing people often miss is the rubber boots. It's where the roof fence comes up that you find roof boots. If they dry up they will cause major leaks. It's a quick fix; purchase a new roof boot in a local hardware store. You may have to remove some of the shingles, lay a better tar under it and put it back in place.

Inspect Materials

Sometimes shingles are faulty and will begin to crack after they've been nailed down. Faulty installation with nails and shingles can also play a big part in leaks. Nails could be nailed too low and it will start pushing back up. Make sure to always check merchandise before getting on the roof.

Check Valleys

A valley is where the intersection of two roofs comes together. It is also called the ridge, which is again where two roofs meet at the top. Valleys are very common places for leaks because that's where the water from the entire roof goes to and it will start sloshing back and forth.

Eliminate Leaks

It's important not to get discouraged when a leak can't be found. It's a process of elimination. You've covered one area, installed the shingles back and sealed it watertight so at least one spot is eliminated. Now, you can try other areas.

This post was taken from http://www.diynetwork.com/

6 tips to help you tackle damp problems in your home

Damp plaster is unpleasant to live with, especially at this time of year, and can affect the whole room, but what can you do about it?

Here are six tips for dealing with the problem:

1. Check the outside of your home. Penetrating damp happens when there's a problem with the fabric of the building. While the damp usually moves horizontally from the outside in, it can appear on ceilings (see below) as well as walls.

Defective or missing flashing on the roof, defective or blocked guttering, defective pointing and brickwork, and cracked or missing render typically cause penetrating damp, although there may be other causes. Sometimes what appears to be damp may actually be condensation.

2. If the lower part of a wall is damp, it's probably rising damp (water coming up from the ground), in which case the solution may be a new damp-proof course, installed by a specialist damp company (other damp-proofing solutions are available).

Once the bricks are damp, the moisture usually transfers to the plaster inside - tell-tale signs include dark patches and blistering/bubbling paint, but it's not always obvious that the plaster is damp. Damp plaster should be removed to expose the bricks underneath - letting them dry out is a good idea, but it can take a very long time.

3. If you can't wait, get a plasterer to do a waterproof render and then replaster, so there's a barrier between the moisture in the bricks and the new plaster. This is a messy process and if you get a specialist damp company to do it, it may be expensive, but they should provide a guarantee. Most plasterers won't give you a guarantee, but should charge a lot less.

The key is to get an experienced and reputable plasterer who knows what they're doing and uses the right products. If the waterproof render isn't done correctly, the damp will come back through the plaster, which is disastrous.

4. Sometimes the damp-proof course is simply being prevented from doing its job. You should be able to see it along your home's exterior walls - look for a row of small holes a little way up from the ground.

In old properties, slate was used as the original damp-proof course and is sometimes still in place. If the level of your garden, patio or path is higher than the damp-proof course, for example, it won't work properly.

5. Perhaps you've noticed damp on a chimney breast, or where the chimney breast would have originally been? This could be because the chimney stack needs repairs, the chimney pot isn't capped, or the chimney breast isn't ventilated properly indoors.

When a fireplace opening is sealed up, a vent should be fitted, but isn't always (it's a relatively straightforward DIY job to fit one), and vents can get blocked with dust and debris. A defective chimney or roof can cause damp on the ceilings below, especially if there's no roofing felt, which is sometimes the case in old properties.

6. The quickest and easiest DIY way to deal with damp plaster is to cover it with anti-damp paint and then repaint the topcoat. Anti-damp paint is usually really thick, so apply it with a brush (to get lots on) and then use a mini foam roller to get a good, flat finish. Leave it to dry thoroughly - see the manufacturer's instructions - and apply a second coat if recommended.

Anti-damp paint works well for a while, but is rarely able to hold back damp long term.

Our RapidGuard product will prevent moisture from penetrating the surface. Read more here.

This post was taken from www.newsshopper.co.uk

How are roofing costs estimated?

General Tips

The roof is one of the biggest investments you'll make in your home. Find out how the costs of installation of a new roof and repairs on existing roofs are determined.

Size: Roofers will calculate the exact size and dimensions of your roof to best estimate the amount of materials needed.

Slope of your roof: The steeper your roof is, the more materials will be needed to cover it.

Materials: The price for materials will depend on what kind of roofing materials you choose to have installed.

Roof access: If your roof is difficult to access, or if it is multiple stories, contractors may charge more.

Difficulty level: If your project is complex - for example, if you have chimneys, skylights and vents that roofers need to work around - the higher the cost could be.

Location: Where you live could determine your estimate.

See this article here & credit goes to http://www.news8000.com/lifestyle/how-are-roofing-costs-estimated/221573408

local.which.co.uk contacted Which? Local-recommended traders to find out how much standard jobs should cost and how quickly they should be completed. Armed with this information, you’ll feel confident about hiring traders and be better equipped to spot when things aren't right.

local.which.co.uk surveyed recommended roofers to find out how much you should spend on 13 common jobs and how long they should take to complete.

How are roofing costs estimated? How are roofing costs estimated? roof 1197886 1920

Trader tip: scaffolding

If extensive work is taking place on a property above one storey high then it’s likely that scaffolding will be required.

Scaffolding is expensive, and takes hours to put up and take down. This will increase the price of quotes.

Research methodology

In July 2012, we sent a survey to all Which? Local traders in the Roofers category with a rating of three stars or more and an email address.

20 roofing professionals responded to the survey. Using their experience and expertise, they answered questions about the cost of popular roofing jobs, and how long they should take to complete.

Job Details Typical price quoted Price range Typical time to complete job
Survey conducted in July 2012
Replace fascias and soffits on a typical three-bed detached bungalow Remove wooden fascias and soffits. Replace with uVPC. Includes cost of labour and materials. Assuming no scaffolding needed. £1,900 £1,250-£2,225 2–5 days
Replace fascias and soffits on a typical three-bed detached, two-storey house Remove wooden fascias and soffits. Replace with uVPC. Includes cost of labour, materials and scaffolding. £2,425 £1,625-£3,000 2–5 days
Replace lead flashing on chimney n/a £340 £300-£450 1 day
Fix leaking roof on a two-bed bungalow Replace approx six roof tiles. n/a £80-£189 1-3 hours
Fix leaking roof on three-bed, semi-detached, two storey house Replace approx six roof tiles. n/a £88-£200 1–3 hours
Replace whole roof on a two-bed bungalow – plain tiles Remove existing tiles, fit new plain tiles. Includes cost of labour, materials and scaffolding. £4,500 £3,850-£5,875 4-6 days
Replace whole roof on a three-bed, semi-detached, two-storey house – plain tiles Remove existing tiles, fit new plain tiles. Includes cost of labour and materials. £5,600 £4,500-£7,000 6–10 days
Replace whole roof on a four-bed, detached, two-storey house – plain tiles Remove existing tiles, fit new plain tiles. Includes cost of labour and materials. £6,750 £5,500-£8,750 10–14 days
Replace whole roof on a two-bed bungalow - slate Remove existing slate and replace with new. £4,800 £4,000-£6,000 5–10 days
Replace whole roof on a three-bed, semi-detached, two-storey house – slate Remove existing slate and replace with new. £6,250 £5,000-£7,500 8–12 days
Replace whole roof on a four-bed, detached, two-storey house – slate Remove existing slate and replace with new. £8,250 £6,500-£12,000 10–20 days
Flat roof on typical single garage Put a flat roof on existing single garage - rubber membrane. £900 £840-£1,150 1 day
Flat roof on conservatory Put a flat roof on a conservatory measuring approx 10'10” x      

This has been taken from https://local.which.co.uk/advice/cost-price-information-roofers-roofing-jobs

Tips on preparing your roof for winter

Tips on preparing your roof for winter

INSPECT THE ROOF

Some people love the sound of rain, but nobody likes the drip, drip, drip of a leaky roof. So start your fall home inspection from the top, taking a good look at the condition of your roof. Curled, damaged, loose or missing shingles are signs that your roof may be compromised.

"Problems can arise anywhere on the roof, but more often than not, the best areas to check are generally where shingles meet any wall, chimney, skylight, pipe or other flashings," said Jeff Durocher, of Jeff Durocher Roofing in Little Falls.

A loose shingle doesn’t seem like much cause for concern, but it can lead to bigger problems. As Durocher noted, "if it blows off, becomes damaged in a storm or if there is a few feet of snow on the roof, the result can be a serious leak.Sometimes problems won’t be seen until expensive interior damage is already done. This makes what would have typically been a simple maintenance repair job much more invasive, requiring tearing up an area of roofing and removing and replacing rotted wood from scratch."

Before climbing a ladder to check out the conditions on the roof yourself, however, consider that a thorough inspection should really be left to a pro. "Some people may be tempted, but if your shingles are sliding out of place in one area, who is to say others won’t slide out from under your feet when you’re attempting a repair," cautioned Durocher. "Plus sometimes what looks like a small problem, can really be much worse. A professional may notice things that a homeowner cannot."

Although he doesn’t recommend leaving a roof inspection to a do-it-yourselfer, Durocher said you can also check inside your home for telltale signs of trouble. He recommends examining the ceiling for stains. Water stains usually have a dark ring around them and get larger and darker after it rains. Take particular note of what Durocher called "flashing regions," the walls and ceiling around skylights or chimneys.

DODGE THE DRAFT

Here’s one way to keep your heating bills low: seal leaks due to cracks around your home’s windows and doors. Weather stripping is an inexpensive solution, but it can deter-iorate, so check it and replace it if necessary.

Caulk is another easy remedy for drafty gaps not only around doors and windows, but for places on an exterior wall where cable, phone, electrical or gas lines enter the house. If there is existing caulk, make sure it isn’t cracked or damaged. If it is, scrape off the old stuff and re-caulk.

Test for drafts in all of these areas on a windy day now, and take appropriate measures before the temperature drops to freezing.

CHECK STAIRS, WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS

Chipped stairs and loose railings spell potential disaster, as do damaged walkways and driveways. And the danger is exacerbated when conditions outdoors are slippery and icy. Minor repairs to concrete surfaces are easy, however.

Clean out the crack thoroughly, using a wire brush. Then apply a concrete repair caulk or crack filler, which you can find in any home improvement or hardware store. You can also find patch kits for driveways, working the same way. But leave major repairs to large cracks, stairs and other concrete surfaces to a professional.

Finally, a few last words to the wise from Durocher, "A homeowner should look at their property before the bad winter weather comes and always look as often as possible. There may be problems a professional contractor can correct with simple standard maintenance. Being proactive with your property will go a long way in making sure your home is prepared for the most crucial months of the year."

This was taken from blog post http://archive.northjersey.com/

Tips on preparing your roof for winter Tips on preparing your roof for winter snow 941411 1920

CLEAN THE GUTTERS

Right now falling leaves, twigs and other wind-blown debris are not just covering your lawn, they are clogging your gutters and drain spouts. Cleaning the gutters is a minor task but it’s of major importance.

Said Tom Stachelrodt of North Jersey Gutter Topper in Ridgewood, "Clogged gutters in the winter prevent rain and melting snow from flowing away from your house, causing snow and ice buildup on your roof and gutters. This extra weight can result in gutters that pull away from or fall off the house. It also causes ice damming, which is a buildup of melting snow and ice that can [leak into] your home."

Clean, unobstructed gutters, on the other hand, head off potential water damage to the roof and also to siding and even your home’s foundation.

Cleaning the gutters yourself is relatively easy. You’ll need a trowel, or work gloves, to scoop out twigs, leaves, dirt or any other bits of things — including insects and other critters that may be nesting in there.

You’ll also need a sturdy ladder. Never stand on the roof and lean over to do the job. That’s dangerous.

Once you’ve cleaned out everything, flush the gutters with water, using a garden hose. Then make sure the downspouts are clear and nothing is lodging inside them.

However, Stachelrodt cautioned, "Cleaning your gutters once or twice a year does not guarantee clean gutters. You should clean them at least six times a year to ensure the flow of water away from the house."

You might consider installing gutter screens or gutter guards. A gutter guard is a product made of aluminum or super-fine mesh screening or perforated metal that goes over the existing gutter or it can be a heavy-duty brush that sits inside the gutter to prevent clogs [resulting] from the buildup of leaves and other debris.

Coconuts as option for roofing?

Growing interest in coconut cultivation seen after successful festival

From copra to piña coladas, the coconut has a wide range of uses. Now it is making an appearance as a possible roofing material.

A team of students and professors at the Institute of Technology of Colima (Itec) has developed an alternative roofing product made from the husk of the coconut.

During a first stage, the team replaced the commonly used fiberglass with coconut fiber, mixing it with a polyester resin to meld all the elements. After the product didn’t provide the expected results, the team decided instead to try coir, the fiber in the coconut’s outer husk.

Professor José Ricardo Moreno Peña explained that a key motivator in their research was creating a sustainable product. The coconut fiber is usually discarded as trash or burned, and is readily available throughout the state.

Early tests have shown that the uniquely-shaped sheets of roofing are strong but Moreno said more testing will determine their structural tolerance to determine if it can be used for building.

The product is also something that people can make themselves.

“Our purpose is to offer safe self-assembly alternatives for people who with their own work will be able to produce this sheet roofing. Our product will provide a shelter from the elements from the get-go, but we plan in future design stages to add a thermal resistance element,” said Moreno.

Once the technical feasibility and resilience of the sheets is satisfactorily tested, the team will focus on further improving the product.

Architecture and design student Joel Vargas Montes said the sheets are different from any others currently available on the market.

He said they are composed of pyramid-like structures that distribute the load throughout the sheet.

- See more at: http://mexiconewsdaily.com/news/coconuts-considered-as-option-for-roofing/#sthash.frDcTSbf.dpuf

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The recently-held Guyana Coconut Festival has been deemed a success as more people are expressing interest in cultivation that could boost the revival of the industry.

“A lot of people have been waiting on the opportunity to invest in coconut and that was what we actually wanted to get out of the festival,” Raymond Trotz, a producer and Chairman of the National Stakeholders Platform (NPS), told Stabroek News in an interview.

The festival, held from October 21 to October 23 under the theme ‘Awakening the Sleeping Giant,’ was part of the activities planned for Coconut Awareness Week.

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Roof Protection 6 tips

6 Guided Tips For Roof Protection and Repair Tips

What indicates holes in flashing?

Holes in Flashing

Rainwater will penetrate wherever there's an opening, and there are a lot more than the average person realizes. Check out the underside of the roof for wetness or mold around points of penetration (plumbing vents, chimneys), wherever different roof planes intersect (valleys) and near dormers. *These are signs you've got holes in your flashing or that the flashing was installed wrong.

Flashing refers to thin pieces of impervious material installed to prevent the passage of water into a structure from a joint or as part of a weather resistant barrier (WRB) system.

 

How can I tell if my roofing material is defective?

Once rainwater breaks into your house, it can be very elusive. You may not find water directly below a penetration point. Keep in mind that water may travel sideways before passing through a joint in the roof sheathing, and may travel in a horizontal joint before falling on the floor or ceiling. If this happens, there may be a problem in the roofing material.

 

How much water does a roof collect in a 2 inch rainfall?

Of Roofs and Rainfall

One very obvious source of moisture and/or water in your basement is rainwater. During a hard 2 "- rainfall, a 1,000-square-foot roof will collect about 250 gallons of water, dying to get into you nice dry basement. If you have four downspouts, that averages out to about 63 gallons (240 l) per downspout location. Check your roof thoroughly for leaks and repair them as soon as possible. The longer you let the problem occur, the worse the damage will be.

 

What are the most common sources of a leaky roof?

Common Sources of Roof Leaks

Every time it rains, your roof is under attack from liquid invaders from the sky, seeking to breech your home's defenses and steal your right to be warm and dry (well, that's one way of looking at it). Rainwater is quick to exploit any weakness in the integrity of your roofing defense system. Roofing materials can wear out, break, rust, blow off, or otherwise fail and give moisture the opening it needs to do its damage. Most commonly rainwater finds its way through the roof by way of a chimney, plumbing vent, exhaust fan or skylight, flashings when the sealant joints around these penetrations crack and fail. Look for potential chinks in your home's armor in the following areas:

  • Old or defective shingles can curl and crack, allowing moisture intrusion. If old shingles aren't removed before new roof shingles are applied, it can reduce the life of the new roof. 
    • Chimney caps can crack allowing water inside the chimney. 
    • Gutter flashing can fail, forcing rainwater to set up camp between the roof and gutter. 
    • Flat or low pitched roofs have unique maintenance needs and are susceptible to water problems because they may not drain as quickly as roofs with a steeper pitch.

Flat roof drains or scuppers can clog and hold water on the roof, increasing the risk, not only of a leak, but of a possible collapse of the entire roof under the weight of the water. The price of dryness is eternal vigilance. Keep possible penetration points well sealed and maintained and you will have nothing to fear from raindrops falling on your roof. You don't need a guide to roof protection and repair to know that prevention is your best defense.

Where do I start looking for a leak.

 

Locating a Roof Leak

When it comes to leaking roofs, many homeowners are looking for leaks in all the wrong places. You no longer have to be one of them. The first and perhaps most obvious place to look for a roof leak is directly above the leak in a ceiling or exterior wall. Use a flashlight to inspect the attic floor over the leak while it's raining. If you see standing water, water stains, mold, wet insulation or other exposed insulation, you've found what you've been looking for.

What do I do about a leaky roof?

 

Preventing Roof Leak Damage

A leaky roof can be a pain forever, if not taken care of promptly. As soon as you spot water coming in, stains, or mold, take immediate action to limit damage. Hire a professional to nip it in the bud or go to the library and pick up a guide to roof protection and repair so you can handle it yourself. Locate the leak from inside and then take steps to control the damage until you can have a suitable outside inspection and repair done. Remember, your leaky roof won't get better with age and won't repair itself.

Written by: LifeTips link to blog post below.

Life Tips